Wednesday, September 6, 2017
Monday, May 23, 2016
Tutorials, Custom Orders, Free Stuff & how I determine my prices ...
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| I am not accepting any more custom orders, but I will still be adding dozens of new pre-made sets every month. Available sets will be listed in my Etsy Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY |
How much I earn...
Tutorials: $0/hour
Custom Orders: $2.85/hour t
Pre-Made Sets: $10.25/hour
Sending Out Free Stuff: $0/hour & -$30-$150/set (supplies and shipping cost money)
Why I am not accepting custom orders...
Unfortunately, I cannot afford to make custom orders.
I understand that this seems confusing, and after receiving many inquiries as to why I cannot afford to accept custom orders, I decided to simply write a (rather lengthy) blog entry. Yes, I was charging significantly more for custom orders, but it wasn't nearly enough to offset all the lost time.
"How are pre-made sets, which cost less, more profitable?"
When I'm making pre-made sets, I make the set, I photograph the set, and I list it. When it is paid for, I ship it, and I update it as shipped. That's pretty much it. Occasionally, a customer has a question, but most transactions require very little time for customer service.
"How are pre-made sets, which cost less, more profitable?"
When I'm making pre-made sets, I make the set, I photograph the set, and I list it. When it is paid for, I ship it, and I update it as shipped. That's pretty much it. Occasionally, a customer has a question, but most transactions require very little time for customer service.
I have no deadlines, aside from going to the Post Office once a week to mail packages. If I want to work 80+ hours in a week I can, but if I want to be "lazy" and work a mere 40 hours, it is alright because I have not taken payment for a set that has yet to be made, so there is significantly less stress. Like most people, I work more efficiently (and am happier) when I'm not overly stressed.
Supplies can be ordered in bulk (discounted pricing) at my convenience, and I can choose whichever supplies are "in season" or on sale/special. With custom orders, I usually have to order a specific fiber, which may or may not be in-stock. I may have to check several suppliers, pay a higher price, and pay individual shipping charges. Basically, the supplies generally cost $10-$40 more per set for a custom order.
Assuming that the item I need is in stock, wool is a natural fiber and can vary in texture from one fleece to the next, so the client might not like the texture of the finished product. With pre-made sets, the texture is what it is. There is no need to worry about whether a new batch of wool will felt up exactly like the previous batch.
Supplies can be ordered in bulk (discounted pricing) at my convenience, and I can choose whichever supplies are "in season" or on sale/special. With custom orders, I usually have to order a specific fiber, which may or may not be in-stock. I may have to check several suppliers, pay a higher price, and pay individual shipping charges. Basically, the supplies generally cost $10-$40 more per set for a custom order.
Assuming that the item I need is in stock, wool is a natural fiber and can vary in texture from one fleece to the next, so the client might not like the texture of the finished product. With pre-made sets, the texture is what it is. There is no need to worry about whether a new batch of wool will felt up exactly like the previous batch.
So, if I pay an extra $10-$40 for supplies, and the order falls through, I have to sell it as a pre-made (average of $165). It's more like I'm selling it for $125-$155.
Why I didn't make a profit off of custom orders...
Most inquiries are not serious inquiries.
Of the 400+ inquiries that I received:
18 became orders
10 required cancellations/refunds (so only 8 actual sales)
So, 98% of the inquiries did not end in sales.
Four-hundred messages isn't really that many, but most inquiries involved several messages, ranging from 2-50 messages per inquiry. So, with an average of 20 messages per inquiry = about 8,000 messages. The average message took just 2-minutes to answer, but:
8,000 messages x 2 minutes = 16,000 minutes
16,000 minutes / 60 = over 266 hours
So, over the past three months, I have spent over 266 hours responding to messages.
(So, about 22 hours per week.)
To continue to be able to financially afford to take custom orders (in addition to the normal cost of a set, plus the additional cost of ordering set-specific supplies) I would need to charge for the time spent answering inquiries.
266 hours x $8.50/hour = $2,261
$2,261 / 8 (the number of custom orders that went through) = $282 (rounded down)
I sell my average pre-made set for about $165.
Custom ordered supplies cost an extra $10-$40 per set.
$165 + $282 + $25(average cost for extra supplies)= $472
$472 for a set! (If I want to make roughly minimum wage)
Here is what I actually made by selling custom orders:
Charging an average of $200/custom set x 8/sets = $1600
(-2.5% for Etsy) -$40
(-$5/set for Paypal) -$40
(-$5/setfor packaging/cleaning supplies) -$40
(-$25/set for supplies) -$200
(-$25/set for extra supplies) -$200
$1600 - $520 = $1080
Average time per set (not counting customer service): 14 hours
14/hours x 8sets = 112 hours
Adding in the customer service time (266 hours)
112 hours + 266 hours = 378 hours
$1080 / 378hours = $2.85/hour
Charging almost $500 for a set of dreads is a bit much, but making $2.85/hour isn't an acceptable hourly wage. This is why I cannot afford to accept custom orders.
266 hours x $8.50/hour = $2,261
$2,261 / 8 (the number of custom orders that went through) = $282 (rounded down)
I sell my average pre-made set for about $165.
Custom ordered supplies cost an extra $10-$40 per set.
$165 + $282 + $25(average cost for extra supplies)= $472
$472 for a set! (If I want to make roughly minimum wage)
Here is what I actually made by selling custom orders:
Charging an average of $200/custom set x 8/sets = $1600
(-2.5% for Etsy) -$40
(-$5/set for Paypal) -$40
(-$5/setfor packaging/cleaning supplies) -$40
(-$25/set for supplies) -$200
(-$25/set for extra supplies) -$200
$1600 - $520 = $1080
Average time per set (not counting customer service): 14 hours
14/hours x 8sets = 112 hours
Adding in the customer service time (266 hours)
112 hours + 266 hours = 378 hours
$1080 / 378hours = $2.85/hour
Charging almost $500 for a set of dreads is a bit much, but making $2.85/hour isn't an acceptable hourly wage. This is why I cannot afford to accept custom orders.
"Why do you need to make money?"
Unfortunately, I cannot afford to work without getting paid. Like (most) everyone else, I have bills and expenses. There is nothing immoral or unethical about expecting to get paid for doing work.
"You should care about more than just money!"
Yes, some things are more important than money. For me, staying home with my son is more important than making more money. To be honest, the average dread-maker makes about $2-$10/hour. Yes, there are a few who make much more, but most artists do not get rich selling their art.
If a customer decides to change their mind about the date that they need their set, I get to comply or issue a refund. Customers don't want excuses. I put off visiting my father, because a couple customers decided they didn't want their orders unless they could be completed sooner. Since he lived hundreds of miles away, I couldn't afford to schedule a trip if I refunded their payments. At least I was able to make it to the funeral. The final time I accepted custom orders, I had to stay home and work on my son's birthday. I missed his party, so I could finish a set (several weeks before the initial agreed upon date) that the customer "needed". When I let her know that it was finished early, she asked to cancel the order. I issued a refund, and decided I was done with custom orders.
"You charge too much!" (How much I make per hour.)
When I first started making dreads, I aimed to make a minimum of $4/hour. At the time, in my area, minimum wage was about $7/hour and daycare was about $4/hour. Four is more than three, and it meant that I could make more money while staying home with my baby.
I only made about $1/hour for the first twenty or so sets that I made, but as I got faster at felting and started ordering supplies in bulk, I was able to get to my $4/hour goal by the time I reached my fiftieth set.
Honestly, I have lost track of how many sets that I have made. I estimate it is between six and seven hundred. After nearly three years of working 40-80 hours per week, I was able to make almost $9/hour.
*Update (2/2017) : I am currently making $9.50/hour (minimum wage in my state is currently $8.90)
"You should care about more than just money!"
Yes, some things are more important than money. For me, staying home with my son is more important than making more money. To be honest, the average dread-maker makes about $2-$10/hour. Yes, there are a few who make much more, but most artists do not get rich selling their art.
If a customer decides to change their mind about the date that they need their set, I get to comply or issue a refund. Customers don't want excuses. I put off visiting my father, because a couple customers decided they didn't want their orders unless they could be completed sooner. Since he lived hundreds of miles away, I couldn't afford to schedule a trip if I refunded their payments. At least I was able to make it to the funeral. The final time I accepted custom orders, I had to stay home and work on my son's birthday. I missed his party, so I could finish a set (several weeks before the initial agreed upon date) that the customer "needed". When I let her know that it was finished early, she asked to cancel the order. I issued a refund, and decided I was done with custom orders.
"You charge too much!" (How much I make per hour.)
When I first started making dreads, I aimed to make a minimum of $4/hour. At the time, in my area, minimum wage was about $7/hour and daycare was about $4/hour. Four is more than three, and it meant that I could make more money while staying home with my baby.
I only made about $1/hour for the first twenty or so sets that I made, but as I got faster at felting and started ordering supplies in bulk, I was able to get to my $4/hour goal by the time I reached my fiftieth set.
Honestly, I have lost track of how many sets that I have made. I estimate it is between six and seven hundred. After nearly three years of working 40-80 hours per week, I was able to make almost $9/hour.
*Update (2/2017) : I am currently making $9.50/hour (minimum wage in my state is currently $8.90)
*Update (12/2019) : I am currently making $15.50/hour (minimum wage in my state is currently $9.45)
*Update (2/2021) : I am currently making $10.25/hour (minimum wage in my state is currently $9.87)
***Due to the pandemic and inflation, the cost of all of my supplies, packaging, fees and shipping has nearly doubled, while the global market has expanded, so customers have pressured me to lower my prices to compete with overseas sweatshops, which meant I had to cut my personal wages.
(As this is not a living wage, and it is not sustainable to continue to work 80+hours/week, prices are set to increase $0.25-$3.00/set starting on 3/31/2021, with gradual increases every 2-3 months, until a reasonable living wage is obtained.)
"Well, other people sell for less"
Yes, some people sell for more and some sell for less, but I don't understand why people need to get upset with me over the prices that I set for my products. If you don't believe that my work is worth the price I'm charging, you have the option of buying from someone else.
Most people that sell for super cheap are just starting out, and they need the practice, and they understand that they aren't making a profit because they are investing in their own future. There is nothing wrong with buying a set at-cost or below-cost from someone that is just starting out. You are helping to support them while they learn and establish a business. However, most people will raise their prices once they gain experience. So, if you see a dirt cheap set from a new maker, nab it before they raise their prices.
Beware that super low prices can also indicate lower quality.
I admit, sometimes there are sellers that are offering amazing quality at super low prices, which make mine seem insanely high. Some, know they are selling low, and only make a few sets a year for a bit of extra cash. They don't care that they aren't making a huge profit because it isn't their primary source of income, and they are mainly creating for fun. There are also a few sellers who are located in areas where they can buy their wool directly from local farms, so their supply costs are significantly lower.
Then there are other sellers, who make great products, but they are horrible with managing business matters. They usually make simple errors, such as not calculating in the little costs, such as packing materials, storage supplies/furniture, shipping, dye, business cards, photography accessories, selling fees, transportation, etc. Or maybe they are making huge errors, like only calculating the cost of half the wool that they are actually using for a set. Or they aren't figuring in the occasional big expenses, like blending equipment, a new camera, or a new computer. Or maybe they have carefully factored the cost, but have forgot to figure in an hourly wage. Or they have factored in the cost of raw materials, but neglected to add in the amount of time (and money spent on scouring products) to process the raw fleece.
Whatever the reason, if you see a full set of new dreads that are absolutely gorgeous being sold for $35 then there is something seriously wrong.
And sometimes it's a scam.
So, be safe, use Paypal, read up on their Buyer Protection policies, and make sure to open a case if your beautiful dreads never show up. Also, before you buy, read the entire listing. That $35 could be a deposit, not the price for the entire set.
"Well, other people sell for less"
Yes, some people sell for more and some sell for less, but I don't understand why people need to get upset with me over the prices that I set for my products. If you don't believe that my work is worth the price I'm charging, you have the option of buying from someone else.
Most people that sell for super cheap are just starting out, and they need the practice, and they understand that they aren't making a profit because they are investing in their own future. There is nothing wrong with buying a set at-cost or below-cost from someone that is just starting out. You are helping to support them while they learn and establish a business. However, most people will raise their prices once they gain experience. So, if you see a dirt cheap set from a new maker, nab it before they raise their prices.
Beware that super low prices can also indicate lower quality.
I admit, sometimes there are sellers that are offering amazing quality at super low prices, which make mine seem insanely high. Some, know they are selling low, and only make a few sets a year for a bit of extra cash. They don't care that they aren't making a huge profit because it isn't their primary source of income, and they are mainly creating for fun. There are also a few sellers who are located in areas where they can buy their wool directly from local farms, so their supply costs are significantly lower.
Then there are other sellers, who make great products, but they are horrible with managing business matters. They usually make simple errors, such as not calculating in the little costs, such as packing materials, storage supplies/furniture, shipping, dye, business cards, photography accessories, selling fees, transportation, etc. Or maybe they are making huge errors, like only calculating the cost of half the wool that they are actually using for a set. Or they aren't figuring in the occasional big expenses, like blending equipment, a new camera, or a new computer. Or maybe they have carefully factored the cost, but have forgot to figure in an hourly wage. Or they have factored in the cost of raw materials, but neglected to add in the amount of time (and money spent on scouring products) to process the raw fleece.
Whatever the reason, if you see a full set of new dreads that are absolutely gorgeous being sold for $35 then there is something seriously wrong.
And sometimes it's a scam.
So, be safe, use Paypal, read up on their Buyer Protection policies, and make sure to open a case if your beautiful dreads never show up. Also, before you buy, read the entire listing. That $35 could be a deposit, not the price for the entire set.
Also, when looking at dread prices, Etsy is a global economy... So, a sweatshop overseas will cost less than a product handmade in the USA. If you're looking for dirt cheap dreads, there are sweatshops that machine make inexpensive junk.
Basically, I deserve to be paid a living wage, and like every other human being in the world, I should never be expected to provide free products or unpaid services. If you need other people to live in poverty and suffer, so you can look pretty at festivals, then something is seriously wrong with you. If this angers you, then the problem is yours, and you should take some time to reflect on your values and priorities. You have the right to disagree and look for a cheaper price, just don't bother me about it.
I don't mind when people ask how I make my products or ask if I have tutorials. I actually find it very flattering. I can completely understand why someone would want to go the DIY route. It saves money. Honestly, I couldn't afford to buy any of the dreads I wanted, so I learned to make my own.
I don't even get upset when people contact me via my Facebook Page or Etsy Shop to ask, even though my Policies clearly state:
"While I appreciate your interest, I do not have any video tutorials or written instructions for how I make my items. If you have any questions about my items, please do not hesitate to ask. However, please be respectful of the fact that this a shop for selling my handmade products, not a forum for discussing and sharing methods of creating arts and crafts. Please understand that I am in no way obligated to share my techniques. I appreciate your understanding."
I encourage people to learn to make their own. Telling people specifically how I make my products is not only bad for my business, but it discourages people from developing their own personal style. There are already plenty of tutorials on YouTube, and wonderful books on Amazon. There are groups on Facebook and various other forums across the web, various crafting sites, blogs, etc. Honestly, the information is already readily available. There really isn't a "need" for me to make videos. In fact, the ONLY time I ever comment on how I made something, or respond to questions regarding techniques/materials/supplies/etc is publicly. It is a bit disappointing to share photos of my work in Facebook groups, only to have other makers send me PMs ("private messages") asking what they could easily have asked as a comment on one of my images:
1. If the comment is attached to the photo, I know what item/technique/color you are inquiring about
2. We all know that commenting on a photo boosts it's post reach on Facebook. You love my work? You want to see more of it? Then please comment on the photo instead of sending me a PM.
3. I might be inclined to take the time to respond to a publicly posted comment. It's easier and less time consuming to respond to a public comment and have a conversation with multiple people, instead of tediously responding to individual PMs.
4. Normally, a PM comes across as selfish and lazy. When people send PMs they typically fail to include all the information (or ignore using spellcheck or typing out complete sentences/words) because they're sending it quickly, in a way that is purely convenient for them, and they expect a prompt personalized response. This sort of message is fine and appreciated if it's coming from customers because they aren't asking about free (time-consuming) tips and advice, they're planning to buy something from my shop. For example:
Q: how do u make it glow?
Q: how do u get them curly?
Q: where do u buy ur dye?
Q: how do u make these?
It's not fair to expect a twenty-minute reply to a 6-second question. Part of the reason that I'm self employed is that I couldn't tolerate coworkers, who would NOT do their fair share of the work, but received equal pay. I had to do my own research, develop my own techniques, find my own supply sources, and invest my own time and money.
If someone won't or can't figure out where to buy dye, wool, and navigate the internet for free tutorials, videos, and forums, will that person really be willing to spend the time needed to make an entire set of dreads? Probably not. I don't feel comfortable encouraging people to spend a bunch of money on supplies that they most likely won't use.
I only get really offended when people get pushy and rude, and I get really upset when people try to get sneaky and lie:
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| Add caption |
There are so many many many things wrong with the above conversation... I'm still curious as to how to make 200 dreads using only one pound of wool, and where can I buy Merino for $10/lb? Anyway...
No means no, and most people are fine with that. Then there are those people that just don't get it. I stopped replying to the "customer" above. I want to be a nice professional business person, but I cannot tolerate when people pretend that they are interested in my product, waste my time with countless inquiries, only to eventually reveal that they have no intention of buying, repeatedly insist that I provide them with instructions on how to make my products, and then throw a tantrum when I refuse to do what they want, like this other customer:
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| No job, and trying to score free/discounted things on Etsy, while demanding tutorials...yep, totally sounds like a regular customer, who isn't trying to pull a scam...I should send her an apology and a free set of dreads ASAP! |
"Can I have this for free?"
Probably not...If you have something to offer in exchange, such as modeling or advertising services, then there is absolutely nothing wrong with making an inquiry. However, it is very tacky to try to get free stuff by making other people feel sorry for you:
I get a lot of messages like the one above. This particular person actually sent me three of these requests. First, this is the internet, so I have no way of verifying that what the person is claiming is true. Second, if you really just lost your spouse and your house, it just seems bizarre that you are really concerned about getting hair extensions.
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| I make and sell hair extensions. They are awesome, but they will not help you raise your children. |
Third, having children does not entitle you to free stuff.
Or does it?
I have a child, so here is my Amazon Wish list. I better hurry up and add more stuff to that list before random strangers buy me everything on it.
Or maybe I'm just being selfish... I could afford to send out hundreds of dollars worth of free stuff. I just need to not buy groceries for a week, so she can have a set of hair extensions.
(And yes, my profile picture on Etsy shows me holding my five-year-old son.)
So, Dear Strangers: Here is my Amazon Wish List, because I need a 3D printer, random fashion accessories, books, art supplies, and random crap more than you need to pay your bills or buy groceries.
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| Update(2018): Two years later, the same girl sent me yet another request. |
Fourth...For anyone that thought I was being too harsh. This same person had the audacity to send me another request for free stuff over TWO YEARS later. Aside from the fact that she still hasn't figured out how to use spellcheck, or write a basic sentence, there are much more serious issues here.
1. After two YEARS she can't afford a set of dreads, but she is attending "a lot of shows and a lot of festivals", so she now has plenty of money to go out and do stuff, but thinks I should hook her up with free fashion accessories? This is beyond tacky.
2. "I am trying to start up a Facebook page and a YouTube channel" Excuse me, what? She was trying to get free stuff under the guise of providing a review TWO YEARS ago...and she hasn't even set up a channel or page yet? Seriously, what was she offering me two years ago? Nothing.
3. Maybe this person has two or three kids, and maybe her husband died, and maybe she lost her house, BUT she also mentions that she has plenty of spare time for shows and festivals (and hasn't gotten around to setting up her social networking pages yet), so it's safe to assume that she is more interested in fun vs. working, and would love having a free set to wear, but would be less than thrilled about actually following through with promoting/reviewing.
Fifth, "please get back to me asap" Really!? Not only is she asking for free stuff, but she insists on a prompt response!
Sixth: If you are going to beg for stuff, please at least use spellcheck and maybe write out something resembling a complete sentence.
Seventh: She offers to provide me with a service. So, by sending her free stuff, she can help me? And this brings me to:
"I'm a model..."
Real Models vs. "i m pretty, gimme free stuf"
The lady above offered to provide me with "a video or something". However, she did NOT send me a link to her successful Youtube Channel. (Most likely because she doesn't have one. *Update: two years later, she sent me another request for freebies and indicated that she was just getting around to setting up a page and channel!) If you can actually help advertise my products and increase my sales, then I would love to consider having you model for my little company! Please send me an inquiry regarding modeling in exchange for free products. However, if you are just trying to con free stuff, please look elsewhere. Requests should NOT be a grammatical nightmare riddled with spelling errors.
If you are claiming you can help promote my products, you should have no problem with supporting those claims. Please include links to your various social networking pages. I would appreciate statements like "I have over 20,000 followers on Facebook: (link to page)" or "I have several thousand followers on my Youtube Channel: (link to your channel)". If you are a model, you should have a portfolio with professional quality photographs, and you should send messages with "I am a model (links to portfolio and websites/pages), not "how abouta discount n i can modal 4u". If you have a Youtube Channel, it should have videos on it that people will watch. (No one wants to watch wobbly low-definition videos that were taken with your cell phone.) Your style and following should also be compatible with the products I'm selling.
I use to check out every request I received. Then after the 50th or so link to a page with horrible cell phone selfies and fewer than 100 followers, part of me died inside, and I came to the conclusion that it was a waste of time to check out these "models". Then I get to feel like an ass when someone, who actually has a successful youtube account contacts me.
In the last couple of months, that video has gotten over a million views. She has nearly 200,000 people subscribed to her channel, and she didn't even ask for a free set!
"I'm a model..."
Real Models vs. "i m pretty, gimme free stuf"
The lady above offered to provide me with "a video or something". However, she did NOT send me a link to her successful Youtube Channel. (Most likely because she doesn't have one. *Update: two years later, she sent me another request for freebies and indicated that she was just getting around to setting up a page and channel!) If you can actually help advertise my products and increase my sales, then I would love to consider having you model for my little company! Please send me an inquiry regarding modeling in exchange for free products. However, if you are just trying to con free stuff, please look elsewhere. Requests should NOT be a grammatical nightmare riddled with spelling errors.
If you are claiming you can help promote my products, you should have no problem with supporting those claims. Please include links to your various social networking pages. I would appreciate statements like "I have over 20,000 followers on Facebook: (link to page)" or "I have several thousand followers on my Youtube Channel: (link to your channel)". If you are a model, you should have a portfolio with professional quality photographs, and you should send messages with "I am a model (links to portfolio and websites/pages), not "how abouta discount n i can modal 4u". If you have a Youtube Channel, it should have videos on it that people will watch. (No one wants to watch wobbly low-definition videos that were taken with your cell phone.) Your style and following should also be compatible with the products I'm selling.
I use to check out every request I received. Then after the 50th or so link to a page with horrible cell phone selfies and fewer than 100 followers, part of me died inside, and I came to the conclusion that it was a waste of time to check out these "models". Then I get to feel like an ass when someone, who actually has a successful youtube account contacts me.
The person in the above video is installing a set of dreads that I made. Her profile on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ch527kerosene
In the last couple of months, that video has gotten over a million views. She has nearly 200,000 people subscribed to her channel, and she didn't even ask for a free set!
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| This was the set that I sold her. I will be adding similar sets to my shop in June 2016 : https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY |
Monday, May 16, 2016
Wearing & Washing & Maintenance
I get a lot of questions....
I get a lot of questions regarding how long my products will last, or how long the dye will last, or if they will shed, etc. I realize that most people want short precise answers, but I won't lie. While my locs are very well made, no hair extensions, regardless of who made them, what they are made from (wool, human hair, synthetic hair, yarn, etc.), or the style in which they are made (smooth, crochet, wavy, curly, etc.), will last forever. Honestly, if you want your extensions to last as long as possible then you have to take care of them. However, if you are just looking for the short answers, here they are:
1. No, extensions do not last forever.
2. Yes, they will shed - ALL fur, wool, hair, and fibers shed.
3. All dye will fade (eventually)
4. Extensions can be washed
How long can I wear these/ How long do these last?
I honestly cannot answer this question... Dreads do not have an expiration date. A well-made set of dreads can last a few hours or a few years. It all depends on how they are taken care of and installed. I can tell clients that installed dreads can only be left in for a maximum of 4-8 weeks. This is because your hair grows, so the dreads need to be taken out and reinstalled for a proper fit.
I offer no warranties on my products because I cannot control what happens to my items after I ship them out. I sell through Paypal, and I pay them quite a bit in fees, so that the items (should be) covered by their protection programs if they are damaged or lost in shipment. However, anything beyond that is completely out of my control.
In all of my listings I suggest the following basic cleaning guidelines:
"Wool dreadlocks can be washed. I recommend hand-washing in cool water with mild soap and hanging to dry. However, if you decide to machine wash these, the best method is "delicate" (cool) water for washing, and the lowest possible heat setting. (For machine washing/drying, use a garment bag or pillow case.) Please note that using a washing machine and or dryer can cause shrinking,
loss of length, change in texture, over-felting (hardening), excessive color loss/color bleeding, staining of other items, or other damage to the dreads. Although the dye has been heat set, and the dreads have been pre-washed, exercise caution if washing with other items."
loss of length, change in texture, over-felting (hardening), excessive color loss/color bleeding, staining of other items, or other damage to the dreads. Although the dye has been heat set, and the dreads have been pre-washed, exercise caution if washing with other items."
-Hand washing is the safest way to wash wool dreads.
-Wash in cooler water. Most acid dyes are only tested to be color safe up to 105 degrees Fahrenheit !
-(For more specific information on dyes and dying, I will be writing a separate entry.)
-Washing machines vary by manufacturer and model, so there is no way for me to know whether your washing machine is gentle enough, or if it agitates strongly enough to felt your entire set into one giant matted ball.
-Washing dreads while they are installed is generally safe, BUT it depends upon the temperature of the water, the shampoo being used, how aggressively the person "scrubs" their hair, and how safely the dreads are handled until they are dry. Anything made of keratin (hair, fur, nails, wool, horns, etc.) is going to be more fragile when wet. So, as long as you handle your wet dreads carefully, you should be fine. Also, prepare for the dreads to be really really heavy when wet, and make sure that they dry completely to avoid mold and mildew.
Here is a great video for washing dreads:
This video is by Tina Tiainen. There is only one thing that you shouldn't do when washing - the pulling. When Tina dries out her dreads after washing, she pulls on them and runs the towel down them - do not pull on curly wool. This method is ideal for straight dreads, but not so great for the curly kind that I make because it can straighten out the wool. Instead, scrunch the locs and crumple them up to ring the water out.
How often should I wash my dreads/hair?
This is one of those questions that gets asked in many forums, and it always incites arguments. I know better than to get dragged into it. I usually wash my hair every day, but I'm not going to demand or suggest that complete strangers adhere to the same hair washing schedule as me. Honestly, this is a personal decision that every person has to make for themselves.
What should I wash these with?
If you can find a product that is specifically formulated for washing wool, make sure that it is alright to be used straight on your head if you plan to wash your dreads while they are installed. Certain chemicals and hair products such as those containing bleach or peroxide, color removing shampoos, products with a large amount of alcohol (perfume, cleaning products, liquor), certain essential oils, etc. can cause colors to bleed or rapidly lighten. I have no idea what is in your shampoo or laundry soap. My suggestion - read the labels of the products you are using, and if they sound safe, then pick a dread to "sacrifice" and test it out. If all seems well, then awesome! If not, the following products are good to try:
1. My favorite wool wash is The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo. It has a lovely mild scent. I use it when hand washing my personal sets in the sink, with cool water. It leaves them clean and nice smelling, without stripping color.
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| I found this stuff on Amazon, for under $20 |
2. The second product I personally recommend has the best name ever - "Dirty Rotten Bastard"... It is made by Namaste Farms, AND it is formulated to be cosmetic grade and safe to use on human hair. It is eco-friendly, not tested on animals, and most of the product line is fragrance free. If you are planning to use this on your hair and wool dreads, I suggest diluting it with quite a bit of water as it is meant for scouring heavy oils and dirt from raw fleeces.
3. When in doubt, if you are fortunate enough to still have a grandmother, call her. Grandmas usually know everything. My grandmothers passed away many years ago. However, I was able to find this laundry cheat sheet, with care instructions for all sorts of fibers:
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| I found this useful chart here: http://www.scarves.com/blog/ultimate-fabric-care-cheat-sheet |
4. The following products are heavily recommended by various people in the dread community:
-Baking Soda & Vinegar - Many people claim that this is the BEST way to remove buildup from the scalp. I'm not fond of using baking soda in my hair or on my woolies, but I do rinse both my hair and wool dreads with vinegar to restore a proper PH level.
-Dr. Bronners - Castille Liquid Soaps - this is a 50/50 split - some swear it is the best shampoo ever, while the other half swear it leaves residue and is bad for human hair and wool dreads.
-Mane 'N Tail Shampoo - this one is usually considered alright, if you can't find anything else better in your area
-Avalon Organics - I've never used this brand on my wool dreads, but I did use it on my hair years ago, and it smelled wonderful
-Vital Goods - If you love to shop on Etsy, this looks like a lovely little store
General Maintenance/Care Based Upon Install Method
Your dreads got snagged or torn or they are just loosing their shape or fraying. Don't worry, mistakes happen, materials wear over time, but don't toss those woolies in the garbage just yet! While some damage can't be remedied, most of these issues can be fixed.
Yes, wool dreads are felted wool, but that does not mean that they will retain their shape forever regardless of what is done to them. In addition to not washing them in scalding hot water, tossing them in the wrong cycle of the washing machine, or treating them with harsh chemicals (do NOT use boxed hair dye on wool dreads), you still have to do maintenance on these. How much depends upon how long you wear them, how careful you are with them, and how they are installed.
For some reason, a lot of people think that they don't need to be as careful with dread extensions as they do with other kinds of extensions. While dread extensions are a bit more resilient than other types of extensions, they are not indestructible. If you take a new set of wool dreads and hang them on the wall, aside from some dust, they will look pretty much the same a year later. Permanently installed dreads will tend to get more wear than temporarily installed dreads. For those looking to keep their dreads in as-close-to perfect condition as possible, putting the dreads on ribbons or elastics to wear as temporary "dreadfalls" may be preferable. For those that attach dread extensions permanently to their natural dreads or braid/tie to install, wrapping the dreads in a smooth silk or satin scarf to wear to sleep, may helps prevent damage caused by friction.
While all hair, fur, and wool will shed. Certain types tend to shed more or more visibly than others. Wool with a long staple will be more noticeable. Even the best felted dreads will loose a few fibers here and there. It is nothing that a lint roller can't fix.
If they are shedding excessively, they may need some maintenance. Palm rolling is generally the safest and easiest repair method. For those with more skill, a small crochet hook (most recommend a 1mm or smaller size) and/or felting needle can be used to pull loose hairs back in place.
Dread Beads? Wraps?
Of course, you can decorate wool and synthetic dreads. However, certain products like stained wooden beads or metals that oxidize (like copper or sterling silver) may leave stains on your dreads, which may or may not wash out. Additionally, anything that can snag your dreads (wires, crystals, shells, rough/textured wood, etc.) can damage the fibers, resulting in the need for repairs. It is best to remove beads prior to washing/cleaning your dreads and best not to sleep with beads in. Also, for painted beads, soaking in water can remove the paint. Any bead that is left in for too long can get stuck, as the dreads mature. Removal can be tricky, and involve either cutting a dread off or breaking a glass or plastic bead to remove, or cutting a fiber or wire bead.
Cutting Dreads:
I do not advise people to cut or trim their fiber or synthetic dreads. However, if you choose to do so, be prepared to palm-roll the tips to help finish, taper, and remove loose fibers.
Videos
Styling Dreads:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLR0mL3biCT_FQpBk7fUFcBukjJ9eTbEl0
Installing Dreads:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLR0mL3biCT_F9EcLFHuH8y9PbbK7CMe3U
Links To My Work:
Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Nvcl3ar-Bvtt3rfly-265835876862232
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nvcl3arbvtt3rfly/
Twitter: https://twitter.com/CheyenneLeHale
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/cheyennelehale/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheyennelehale/
Dread Beads? Wraps?
Of course, you can decorate wool and synthetic dreads. However, certain products like stained wooden beads or metals that oxidize (like copper or sterling silver) may leave stains on your dreads, which may or may not wash out. Additionally, anything that can snag your dreads (wires, crystals, shells, rough/textured wood, etc.) can damage the fibers, resulting in the need for repairs. It is best to remove beads prior to washing/cleaning your dreads and best not to sleep with beads in. Also, for painted beads, soaking in water can remove the paint. Any bead that is left in for too long can get stuck, as the dreads mature. Removal can be tricky, and involve either cutting a dread off or breaking a glass or plastic bead to remove, or cutting a fiber or wire bead.
Cutting Dreads:
I do not advise people to cut or trim their fiber or synthetic dreads. However, if you choose to do so, be prepared to palm-roll the tips to help finish, taper, and remove loose fibers.
Videos
Styling Dreads:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLR0mL3biCT_FQpBk7fUFcBukjJ9eTbEl0
Installing Dreads:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLR0mL3biCT_F9EcLFHuH8y9PbbK7CMe3U
Links To My Work:
Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Nvcl3ar-Bvtt3rfly-265835876862232
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nvcl3arbvtt3rfly/
Twitter: https://twitter.com/CheyenneLeHale
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/cheyennelehale/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheyennelehale/
Tuesday, April 5, 2016
Dreads: Installing, Thickness, Length, and Quantity?
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| NVCL3AR BVTT3RFLY - Etsy Shop |
Question: "How many dreads do I need to order?"
Most people need about 40DE dreads for a full install, about 20DE for a mohawk, and 20DE-30DE for an undercut. Those with thin hair need fewer, and those with thick hair need more. How many a person needs also depends upon personal preference. Those that want a fuller look need more, and those that desire less volume, need fewer. It also depends upon the size of the dreads. When installing thicker dreads, fewer may be needed, and installing thinner dreads may require more to get the desired look.
To determine how many dreads you will need for a full install, section your hair in the way you plan to install the dreads. Then count the sections. This is approximately how many dreads you will need. For thin dreads or "micro-dreads", as they are much thinner, I recommend 50DE-80DE for a full install, 30DE-40DE for a mohawk, and 40DE-60DE for an undercut.
*For those who want to add to their natural dreads, just count how many dreads you have.
To be safe I suggest ordering a few extras just in case you section a bit different the next time. It is better to have a few extras than not enough. Also, because "dye lots" vary, it is best to order all of one color variation at one time.
Question: "How long is this set?"
The unit of measurement that I use is inches. One inch equals 2.54cm. Here is a link to a converter: http://www.inches-to-cm.com/
Most people fold DE (double-ended) dreads in half when they install. For this reason, I give two measurements for my double-ended dreads. The shorter measurement is the length when folded in half, and the long measurement is the length from tip to tip, when the DE dread is unfolded.
So, 16"-20" (total length 32"-40") means:
-When folded in half the dreads vary in length from 16-20 inches long.
-Unfolded, measuring from tip-to-tip, the dreads vary in length from 32-40inches.
To determine where the set will fall on you, this chart will give you a rough idea:
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1. place one end of the string at your scalp
2. (while holding one end of the string at your scalp)
3. extend the string to where you would like the tips of the dreads to fall
4. cut the string where you want the tips to be
5. take the cut section of string to your ruler
6. measure the string
7. this is the length that you want your dreads to be
If you are looking at a set of pre-made dreads, and you want to know if they will be a good length for you:
1. cut a piece of string the the length of the dreads
2. take that length of string, and hold it at your scalp
3. decide whether or not the length will be suitable to your preferences
Question: "How thick are these dreads?"
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| Set, photographed with Sharpie markers and Prismacolor Pencils |
I avoid simply using generic terms such as "thin", "medium", and "thick" because they are too vague. I also avoid giving precise measurements, such as "7mm thick" or "marker thickness" because all the dreads that I make are tapered - thinner at the tips, so this precise measurement could be misleading.
Instead, I take photos of my sets, with common objects for size reference.
Question: "How do I install these?"
This is a matter of personal preference, but the most common way is to braid them into your own hair. This method works best for hair that is at least five inches long, although I have heard of people installing (this way) on hair as short as three inches long.
If your hair is very short - under three inches long, it is still possible to install:
To see more of her videos: https://www.youtube.com/user/ch527kerosene
If you are planning to add wool dreads to your natural dreads (this method also works well for adding dreads to hair that has been put in braids):
Question: "How do I style these?"
This is another matter of personal preference. I would suggest visiting youtube, and watching a bunch of "how I style my dreads" videos, until you find a style you like, and then customize it a bit to fit your individual style.
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| To view available sets : https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY?ref=ss_profile#items
Videos
Styling Dreads:
Installing Dreads:
Links To My Work:
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nvcl3arbvtt3rfly/
Twitter: https://twitter.com/CheyenneLeHale
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/cheyennelehale/
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Friday, April 17, 2015
Frequently Asked Questions
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| Icelandic Wool Locs This set is available through my Etsy shop. |
I am often asked if my wool locs will stay curly. The wool that I use to make these comes from breeds of sheep that are naturally curly or wavy. Naturally curly/wavy wool tends to keep its shape better than straight wool that has been curled. I have felted them to resemble their natural curly/wavy texture, instead of trying to felt them smooth/straight, and then curling them afterwards.
The curl can loosen over time based on gravity, friction, humidity/moisture, and cleanliness/environment (accumulated dirt, oils, and styling products can weigh them down and/or weaken the fibers). While my locs are very well made, no hair extensions, regardless of who made them, what they are made from (wool, human hair, synthetic hair, yarn, etc.), or the style in which they are made (smooth, crochet, wavy, curly, etc.), will last forever.
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| Wool "Tie-Dye" Locs These are listed in my Etsy shop. |
In order to get the most life out of any type of hair extensions, you must take good care of them. Keep them clean, avoid harsh chemicals, and try not to snag them. Snags are a common problem. If you play with, or twirl your hair a lot (I'm very guilty of this), then the material can easily catch on long fingernails, rings, or bracelets. Earrings, necklaces, and hats can also do the same thing, so be careful. If you plan to wear them to bed, try wrapping them in a smooth silk or satin scarf and/or switching your pillowcase to a smooth satin or silk.
Wool, hair, and fur all shed. A lint roller works great for catching any loose little fibers. If you are careful, you can use a lint roller while the wool dreads are installed, just be careful not to roll over your hair.
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| Icelandic Wool I have sets available through my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY |
Wool can be washed. Like hair, fur, and nails, wool is keratin based, and is more delicate when wet. I suggest uninstalling your dreads at least once every month to two months (depending upon how quickly your hair grows, what you put on your hair, work environment, etc.) and hand washing them in the sink, with a mild detergent or shampoo, and rinsing with diluted vinegar to help restore the natural PH of the wool. Gently squeeze out the excess water and hang to dry. If they seem to have lost too much of their curl, while they are still damp, you can braid the dreads and dry them the rest of the way with a hairdryer.
If you don't have the time to manually wash your wool extensions, you can use the washer and dryer. As all washers and dryers are a bit different, you do run the risk of ruining them or having them change shape, texture, and length. However, if you decide to machine wash your locs, the safest method is the "delicate" or "wool" cycle (cool water) for washing, and the lowest possible heat setting for drying. Make sure to put your locs in a garment bag or pillowcase. Although I heat-set the dye, and pre-wash the wool, exercise caution if washing with other items.
Looking for informative youtube videos? I suggest Tina Tiainen. There is only one thing that you shouldn't do when washing - the pulling. When Tina dries out her dreads after washing, she pulls on them and runs the towel down them - do not pull on curly wool. This method is ideal for straight dreads, but not so great for the kind I make because it can straighten out the wool. Instead, scrunch the locs and crumple them up to ring the water out. Here is her video for care and styling of wool dreads:
"How do I fix these?"
Your dreads got snagged or torn, the dye has faded, or they are just loosing their shape or fraying. Don't worry, mistakes happen, materials wear over time, and the sun can be brutal, but don't toss those woolies in the garbage just yet! While some damage can't be remedied, most of these issues can be fixed.
Wool can be re-dyed. Wool needs to be dyed with acid dyes. That sounds more toxic and dangerous than what it really is. The acid being used is either citric acid or vinegar. Yes, a plain bottle of white vinegar from the grocery store. If you are not near a craft store, and can't find little jars of powdered acid dye, your best (and cheapest) alternative is food coloring. Then just do some creative Google searching... "How to dye yarn with food coloring" or "dying wool with food coloring", will work nicely. I now use professional acid dyes, but I started out with just food coloring.
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| I dyed these with food coloring and vinegar. Here is an awesome video on dying wool with food coloring: |
While repeated exposure to hot water will cause any dye to fade, wool dreads can be boiled. I like to boil mine after every extended wear to sterilize and re-tighten them. This will help to reset the curl of dreads made from naturally curly wool (Icelandic, Teesewater, Wensleydale, etc). Laying them flat to dry or making sure to squeeze most of the water out prior to hanging will help them retain their wavy texture. Braiding them, then going over them with a hairdryer can add some extra curl. Tossing them in the dryer can really add some extra curl, but I don't recommend it, as it can be a bit difficult to control and can result in the dread getting destroyed.
Chilling the dreads in cold water (or placing them in the fridge first) prior to dropping them in boiling water is ideal. This process is a type of fulling. It's basically a quick way to finish a felted piece. If your wool locs have become severely damaged, you may need to wet felt them by palm rolling, or small snags can be repaired by needle felting. Here is a video for felting wool dreads:
"How do you make these? How did you get that color? How did you make them UV?"
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| UV Wool Icelandic Locs These are available through my Etsy shop. |
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| UV Icelandic Wool Locs Available through my Etsy shop. |
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| Custom order for a wonderful client I have pre-made sets available here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY |
I will be taking a few custom orders during the Summer and Fall or 2015. I have listings for the custom orders available here (for the Icelandic Wool):
https://www.etsy.com/listing/240215770/custom-order-icelandic-wool-dread-set?ref=shop_home_active_9
(Corriedale Wool):
https://www.etsy.com/listing/239371344/custom-order-corriedale-wool-dread-set?ref=shop_home_active_7
I also have many pre-made sets available through my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY
"Do you make Vegan Wool Dreads?"
Technically, there is no such thing as "Vegan Wool". All wool comes from animals. However, there are a lot of gorgeous fibers made from banana, bamboo, tencel, soy, hemp, cotton, rose, and many others that can be turned into gorgeous extensions. However, only animal fibers (or blends with animal fibers) can be wet felted. Vegetable fibers can be needle felted. Needle felting is VERY tedious, and it would take me 20-30 times as long to make a set. I would therefore need to charge $2,500 - $6,000 for a full set, and it would take at least six months to complete. I'm working on a process to bring that price down, but it will be awhile before I will have any full vegan sets available.
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| I made these with a blend of Merino Wool, Bamboo, and Silk |
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| Some of my synthetic dreads. |
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| Dreads made from Alpaca |
Payment and Shipping Information
I accept payment through Paypal. I ship to the name/address that is listed on the Paypal account. I pack my locs by wrapping them first in tissue paper, then wrapping that in BPA free plastic wrap, then I place them in a mailer or box. All orders sent within the US include a tracking number. If you require insurance or different packaging, it is available by request, at an additional cost. I am willing to ship outside of the US. If your country is not listed in the shipping options, please contact me through the Etsy listing, and I will add your country. I ship directly from the Post Office. I ship every 1-8 days. During "Snow Season" I only ship one day per week, either Friday or Saturday.
Sunday, December 7, 2014
Some of My Icelandic Wool Sets...
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| I have all these lovely Icelandic Wool sets available through my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY I have started a few more sets, and I should have them felted, dyed, photographed and listed by the end of next week. Upcoming colors include: -Light Brown/ Blonde/ White Ombre -Light Auburn/Ginger/Strawberry Blonde -Dark Violet-Blue with Teal -Dark Brown/Black and Bright Fuchsia Pink -Bright Red with Brown and Black -Bright Green -Candy Pastel Rainbow Mix Here are some of the other sets I made (that have already sold): |
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| My "Mermaid" Sets |
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| My "Berry Ombre", "Pumpkin Spice", and "Turquoise Lime" sets To see everything I currently have available, please visit my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NVCL3ARBVTT3RFLY You can also follow: Facebook:https://www.facebook.com/pages/Nvcl3ar-Bvtt3rfly/265835876862232 Tumblr: https://www.tumblr.com/blog/cyberlox Twitter: https://twitter.com/CheyenneLeHale Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/cheyennelehale/ Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheyennelehale/ Deviant Art: http://cheyennelehale.deviantart.com/ Google+: https://plus.google.com/u/0/+CheyenneLeHale/posts Myspace: https://myspace.com/nucl3ar.butt3rfly Vampire Freaks: http://vampirefreaks.com/NUCL3ARBUTT3RFLY |
Thursday, October 23, 2014
Finally got around to making some business cards
| The front side of my new business cards |
I finally got around to ordering some business cards. I figured I would save some time and money and just order online. I went with a standard business card from Vistaprint. It cost less than $20, including shipping, for a set of one-hundred double-sided cards. Hopefully they turn out nice. I figured that it is much cheaper to just order them verses buying ink and special paper for my printer.
| The back side of my cards |
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